Chapter 294: Sunny surfing
The surging expanse of the sea stretched out before their eyes, its deep blue waters gradually darkening as they surged relentlessly towards the horizon. At the farthest reaches of their vision, only vast swaths of black could be seen, unable to depict the profound abyss hidden beneath those deep waters—a grand and majestic mystery.
Above, the azure sky was almost cloudless, allowing golden sunlight to pour down unobstructed. On the rippling sea surface, faint ripples emerged, casting a subtle hue on every wave crest, transforming the roaring ocean into a canvas of vibrant diversity. Serene and beautiful, it seemed to open its arms, nurturing the origins of life in the world.
Yet, at this very moment, an excited voice shattered the peaceful tranquility, "Here it comes!"
A diminutive figure lay prone on the long surfboard. Spotting the distant wave with a jelly-like hue rolling in, they agilely moved their arms and paddled swiftly toward the approaching wave. The wave, set against the vast backdrop of the sea, appeared no taller than a finger. However, compared to the small figure, it was nearly three times their height—around five to six meters—a massive wave capable of engulfing fragile lives.
But the figure atop the ivory-white surfboard showed no trace of fear; rather, they were intensely thrilled. With full concentration, they stared at the impending wave. When the board's front edge felt the upward momentum of the wave, they rapidly stood up, legs slightly bent, maintaining their balance and grabbing the center of gravity. Then, they rode the wave, climbing its surface.
They maneuvered through the mint-blue waves, arms spread like an eagle, soaring with the wind. The crisp splashes of waves scattered in the air, mingling with golden and blue halos of light. Blossoming one by one, they gently brushed against their cheeks. In that moment, it was as if the person had melded with the ocean.
As the wave reached its peak, they rose with their surfboard, soaring to the wave's highest point. Piercing through the thin curtain of the wave, they appeared to be riding atop the crest, their body's center of gravity steady and stable. Perfect balance and precise control caused the grandeur of the sea's waves to submit beneath the surfboard. Their naturally graceful glide became an experience of aesthetic enjoyment.
Wave by wave, the sea gradually calmed, and the surfboard returned to the surface. Finally, the man standing on the surfboard lifted his arms high, his bent knees straightening completely. He cheered with vibrant energy, his joyful laughter dancing amidst the roaring waves.
Paul raised his hands high, applauding heartily, his face adorned with a broad smile. Even without words, his body conveyed the sincerest feelings within. He turned to his side, looking at the fellow surfers around him, and asked aloud, "Is this really just his second time surfing?"
Andrew Hamilton also clapped and congratulated, answering from beside, "You shouldn't be asking me about that. It's not me who calls Renly a lunatic." Andrew shrugged, an expression of seeming nonchalance about the nickname. "But my personal advice is, never try to predict his actions, as he'll always leave you feeling defeated."
There was a hint of jest in his words, but his sincerity was palpable. This made Paul burst into hearty laughter, nodding, "I wholeheartedly agree with that."
"Fast 5" had officially wrapped a week ago, and the later stages of filming had gone without a hitch. All progress in the filming process had gone exceptionally smoothly. Paul had experienced the entire shoot firsthand, and Andrew's assessment just now resonated deeply with him. This series had reached its fifth installment, and he had been involved in four of them, yet this kind of filming experience had been unprecedented, truly eye-opening.
Paul believed that Vin would also concur with his viewpoint.
After the shoot wrapped up, Paul followed his usual routine, opting for a tranquil coastline to enjoy some surfing, taking a vacation to unwind. Coincidentally, he found himself in the best surfing season of the year.
Every December, the waves on Oahu Island, Hawaii, were at their prime. At least three international surfing competitions were held on the island during this time.
For Hollywood, this marked the commencement of the award season, and the hustle and bustle of Los Angeles during this period was an event few wished to miss. However, for Paul, the noise had nothing to do with him, so he never missed the opportunity to embrace Hawaii's glory every year.
This time, Paul invited Renly to join him. Back when "Fast 5" was in its early stages of production, they had discussed surfing on Oahu Island together. Renly had shown a keen interest at the time. However, circumstances had changed after they entered the award season. "Buried" had gained good momentum. Logically speaking, he should be back in Los Angeles, engrossed in Academy public relations work.
Paul had originally expected Renly to decline, but out of politeness, he extended the invitation. Unexpectedly, Renly nodded in agreement. Thus, he had the privilege of witnessing the scene that had just unfolded.
After the surfing session, Renly settled back onto the surfboard, using his hands to navigate. He gradually glided in the direction of Paul and Andrew.
In December, Hawaii's temperature still hovered around twenty degrees, warm and pleasant. There was no scorching heat of midsummer, nor the biting chill of winter. Occasionally, there were thunderstorms, and the misty water vapor hung in the air, carrying an agitated warmth that naturally drew one in, urging them to completely relax and unwind.
Renly was grateful he had chosen Hawaii over Los Angeles. He needed a break. Filming back-to-back for "Like Crazy" and "Fast 5" had consumed almost four months. With barely any breathing room, one project overtaxed his mind, while the other drained his physical strength. Like a roller coaster's ups and downs, it had left him thoroughly exhausted. He needed to release the tension from his spirit before diving back into work.
Even more crucially, he needed to slow down and truly savor life's scenery.
Surfing was a wonderful thing, seemingly merging with the ocean yet also mastering the waves. One was immersed in nature's magic, fully embracing the sound of the wind, the splashes of water, the ebb and flow of waves, and the pull of gravity. Everything was so magical, but only by truly feeling the rhythm of the waves could one understand the true essence of freedom on a surfboard.
Just now was the first time he had successfully completed riding an entire wave from start to finish without errors or flaws, from the upward surge of the wave until it vanished. Moreover, the wave was nearly six meters tall.
Unlike rock climbing, the sensations were distinctly different, but the elation of embracing freedom and enjoyment was similar. Renly finally understood why some people were so passionate about surfing and participated in it every day, never tiring of it. He had now begun to love this sport.
"Applause, applause!" It wasn't just Paul and Andrew; the other surfing buddies also joined in, clapping in unison, showering Renly with acclaim.
This was the east coast of Oahu Island, relatively secluded compared to other surfing spots. True surfing enthusiasts were familiar with this place. If the north coast of Oahu Island was a haven for professional surfers, then the east coast was a paradise for amateur enthusiasts.
The waves here were robust and substantial, yet not as perilous as the tube-like waves on the north coast. Occasionally, there were even towering waves of five or six meters. For intermediate to advanced amateur surfers, this place was incredibly suitable.
Renly and his group were not alone here. On the gentle waters near the shore floated over a dozen surfboards, carrying surf enthusiasts of different ages. When there was no surfing, they would retreat to a slightly farther area to regain their energy. But when they were ready to surf again, they would glide to the waiting area closer to the waves and prepare to catch one.
Renly didn't feign humility but took a curtain call as though he had just finished a stage play, then rejoined Paul and Andrew.
Andrew lightly tapped his left palm with his right fingertips, almost without applause. It was a gesture of admiration and respect as he remarked, "Indeed, Renly remains Renly."
Time had passed, and they were no longer the children from Eton College. Yet, upon seeing Renly again, Andrew still found him dazzling and admirable.
Several months had elapsed since their last bare-handed rock climbing. Unexpectedly, the two of them had once again met in Hawaii, this time in the paradise of another extreme sport—surfing. Far away from London's aristocratic circle, they had found common ground again, and the bridge of friendship had been rebuilt.
With a smile, Renly said, "But Andrew is no longer the same Andrew."
This simple statement brought forth faint smiles from both of them. Andrew bent at the waist, used seawater to dampen his forearms, combed back his disheveled hair to prevent it from obstructing his vision, and then turned to Paul and Renly, saying, "I'm going."
With that, Andrew began to paddle with his hands, moving to the area up ahead to catch some waves.
"I've seen it before. Surfers get engulfed in the wave, continuously moving up and down along the inner wall of the tube-shaped wave. They have to counteract gravity's force…"
Renly described it to Paul. He had first experienced the allure of surfing while watching the movie "Point Break" in a previous life. Participating in it firsthand felt even more exhilarating than he had imagined, though different from how it appeared on film.
Paul quickly grasped the concept. "That's the tube-shaped wave, the most challenging kind. As you said, you need to counteract gravity and build momentum. It's not just about balance; it requires advanced skills." When it came to surfing, Paul was Renly's teacher. "I challenged the north coast once. Oh boy, that experience was unforgettable. I ended up covered in bruises, as if I'd been beaten for two days and nights."
Renly burst into laughter at his vivid description. "Hearing you say that, I'm actually quite curious. Isn't there a professional surfing competition on the north coast tomorrow? How about it? Do you want to go and broaden your horizons?"
Seize every moment, cherish each instant, and paint life with a different hue. That's what truly living means.
CREATORS' THOUGHTS 
Shallowman
Shallowman Gotta catch some breath...
"Point Break" - "Extreme Raider"
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